ALASKA CARIBOU CAMP 2007 chapter 3

The next morning broke and we peered out of our tent onto the barren landscape. There were caribou near camp but no Bulls. We climbed into our cold clothes and fixed breakfast and coffee and suited up for some hiking. We made quite the trek around to the west and north of our camp. We looked over into a valley and found some caribou way off in the distance. Quite a bit more walking took us to a view of our previous camp from 2002. It felt strangely like home seeing it again after all these years. I almost wanted to walk down into the valley and hang out for a while. While hiking back to camp, we ran up on some small caribou - dont know where they came from as we had been glassing all morning.





We got a considerable workout that day, but saw no bulls (shooters that is). We also made a mad dash of just under a mile to get to the top of this big hill (several hundred feet tall) to cut off some caribou that Ray had spotted (including one shooter) while Andrew and I were on a hike in a different direction. After getting into position, the caribou stopped walking and bedded for a while. We finally moved in their direction after waiting them out for a while. There were no shooters in the group. We dont know what happenned to the one we had spotted. Our efforts were for naught. So with tired legs, we put in for the evening. The next morning however would prove very different.

We peaked out of the tent to see nothing. So we began making our breakfast - coffee first of course. Just as Ray and Andrew were finalizing their gourmet brews, we noticed some caribou popping over the hill just west of camp (out the front door of the tent). We turned off the stove and decided to watch a bit. After a few minutes, a bull appeared that was considerably better than the others we had seen yet. A few moments of discussion brought out the rifles and video cameras! Ray had decided to take the bull.



So - we cleaned off the camp table and brought up a chair or two, got Ray comfortable, made sure the video was rolling and proceded to harvest the "Cappucino Bull" whilst drinking hot beverages (from inside the tent)! What a classic hunt. The bull was at 250 to 300 yds out. Ray made two nice shots to quickly bring him down.

Ray with his bull

Now with Ray's Bull cleaned and packed into meat bags, we ate lunch and rested a bit. Soon after, the chase began again. The rest of the day brought more work and no results. We turned in and looked forward to the next day.

Andrew and I put on the miles this day! We hiked from vantage to vantage searching for the elusive bull groups. We found several good sheds and one really nice one. This was sort of like a slap in the face from the caribou - as if to say, "yes we are all walking right here, just not while you are around." We would later turn the tables on the shed antler situation. Nothing of note to speak of from our efforts with the exception of the spotting of a grizzly den that had been dug out of the side of a mountain. We began to itemize our food stores to ensure that the gourmet brews of caffinated beverages could continue throughout the trip. It was quickly evident to everyone in the group that I was going to finish off all the hot chocolates far too quickly. Ray and Andrew had to keep me from the food bag for fear of tampered food stores. Some people talk about getting between a grizzly and her cub? Nothing compared to getting between a Warren and a fresh cup of coffee with a sprinkle of hot chocolate powder!!

By the end of this day, we feared that we may be in a bad location. Understanding that the caribou walk 12 mph, we knew that this could totally change in minutes. After pondering the situation, it was unanimous that we should opt to head north and relocate. The bulls usually migrate later and a warm front had moved in just before our arrival. This led us to believe that the farther north we were, the better. So we called in to our pilot with the sattelite phone and asked to be moved in the evening if possible. He showed up and we discussed our options. Matt told us that there was a camp several miles north that he needed to get to anyway to fly out two hunters that had already shot out. We didnt really like the idea of landing into an existing camp, but it was in the correct direction. So we took the offer. And a deal we got!!

saying goodbye to the old camp

The next camp was in a very odd looking location with almost no terrain to work with - or so it seemed. It turned out to be quite different than first impressions. As he was taking off with the other hunters and their gear, he mentioned that this was an outfitted camp and we were to help ourselves to the gear and food!

HOLY SWEET MOSES!!! There were BOXES of fresh food and bread, chips, canned stews, peanut butter and jelly, candy, frozen meat, eggs, bacon, hamburgers, steaks, buns, ding-dongs, several cannisters of propane, stoves, lanterns, and most importantly several dozen packs of HOT CHOCOLATE! God is good. This brought the smiles back even if we were still two caribou short. We ate like kings for the duration of the trip. Almost all the meals were expertly prepared by our newly appointed 5 star tundra chef, Ray.

The new and improved camp

So now we sleep in a slightly smaller tent but with all the fixins. We buckle down to a good night's sleep anticipating the day ahead. The weather was really windy when we awoke. We knew it would get steadily worse for the next 20 hrs or so. Hiking was somewhat challenging in the wind as one would need to lean into the wind (like we needed a v8). We hiked over to a good glassing point. It was a good point and we glassed alot - just didnt see any caribou within a day's hike to hunt. So we hiked back to camp and ate lunch. The rain set in and joined our friend the wind. Things were getting nasty.

Andrew and I enjoyed living in a tarp in 2002 when a similar wind storm destroyed our tent. We understood what was in our possible future, and were ok with that. Ray was slightly more at edge with the prospect of having the tent collapse in the middle of 45+ mph winds and rain. He did a great job of bolstering our rigging and shoring up the tent for the storm that was worsening. That is why you bring only the best gear to AK. The sleeping bags we were using cost just short of $400. But, you can sleep in the rain with no tent and stay dry - just not recommended for high morale! I must also say that the tarp burrito isnt really all that bad. The weather radio brought only bad news for the remainder of the day.

Ray and Andrew scoping the landscape

Sometime after lunch, We spotted a lone caribou about 1/2 mile out and decided to stalk him. Andrew and I had come to the decision that we were making this whole thing to hard. We were just going to walk up to the caribou and shoot it. This is where Ray came up with the idea that we should hold a shed antler above our heads and walk hunched over to close the distance until we could get into some cover. Andrew instantly saw through his dad's plot to get some priceless photos of us doing something that looked really stupid. But we did it anyway and it worked. While in the bushes though, we spotted a different group of caribou that had worked in behind us. We both instantly eyed the largest bull and started talking options. Andrew didnt so much care about trophy antlers as making sure he brought back meat. So he opted to take it and I would hold out for a big one. While stalking, we were spotted and they spooked. Andrew and I ran to a good shooting mound of tundra and scoped in on them.

Andrew with his bull

Andrew shot once and missed. He hurried his shot but quickly collected himself. I noted that the shot was really long and the caribou was trotting. I told him to hold just over his back and up near his ear (much easier to point out when your not the shooter). He became relaxed and confident and told me, "I got him this time. I dont know what I was doing on that first one. Here we go..." BANG!! The second shot dropped the bull in his tracks. There was such a long pause between the shot and the impact, I thought he had missed again. This was the nicest, longest, most beautiful shot I have ever seen. It was 400 yards, in the rain, in a 35 mph headwind, on a running target!! Insane!

Andrew and I securing the meat

Ray heard the shot and started hiking the backpacks to us. Andrew got his first field dressing/butcher job on this one. I really didnt pitch in much until the weather really turned for the worse. We got back to camp just in time when the rain kicked into gear. After securing the meat under the tarp, we settled in to a STEAK DINNER that Ray had prepared in celebration. Things were coming together. We had but two objectives left - (1) survive the 45+ mph wind storm during the night, (2) I needed to find a trophy bull.

Our tent under attack in the wind

As we were turning in, the wind was absolutely pounding!! We were laughing nervously about how hard it was going to be to try to sleep. Ray even slept in his waterproof clothing just in case action was required in the middle of the chaos that was sure to be if the tent failed. Andrew and I felt much more peace as we had been there before (and probably in a state of denial). It is quite unsettling to be there in those conditions! I must give all appreciation for the fine folks at Cabelas for the outfitter series tents. We got hammered all night, but the tent held. The wind actually unzipped the vestebule twice during the night! I dont know how it held - just three people praying hard I guess! After waking, we took a look around to find that everything was more or less intact and we were no worse for the wear. LET THE GAMES BEGIN!

It was crunch time! I had to make it happen today. We hiked and hunted and moved into position on several groups. I kept holding off for the big one. An obvious problem with my plan was that there were no big ones in sight. We had not yet seen one all week! But, I knew there was one walking around out there for me somewhere. In 2002, we saw at least 100 shooters. This time was much different. We later learned that it was the slimmest pickings in the last 15+ years due to the warm front that had kept the animals from migrating.

Andrew and I would joke about getting skunked, talk about shooting the next one that comes along to at least bring home the meat, and worry about what might or might not happen. Towards the end of the day, I found myself with Andrew by my side looking through my scope at an entire group of scrubs. We had seen what we were sure was a big bull in this very group. When the group emerged from a draw, the big bull was not there. My safety was off, my finger on the trigger and my mind spinning. I had just a few hours of light left and this my well be my last chance. Andrew was happy to help hike a cow, a bull, a calf, whatever I decided to shoot. I was getting no flack from him either way. But I just couldnt shoot. I let them all go and sank as I watched them run off. There was nothing left but the selfish prayers of a desperate hunter. As we walked back to our vantage point, I told andrew that God was bringing me one right now. We started laughing at whether or not God cares about hunting, sports, etc... Lo and Behold - below us in the valley is a Big Bull that had come out of nowhere! O happy days! I entered into supreme predator of the north mode. I was the almost lone wolf, the arctic ghost. I was really just scared to death that I was going to blow my last chance! They basically came up and around the perfect side of the hill so that we could get into an advantageous position with the wind in our favor. Andrew stayed up on the hill so as to guide me with hand signals into perfect position as I stalked out into the willow and alders. Andrew was just over 1/4 mi away and conducting the grand finalle to the hunt. He had me set up just right for 50 or 60 yd shot that put my bull straight to the ground. I may never have been so happy except of course for all the moments I spend with my wife.

My bull and I

We finished packing our meat back to camp about 30 minutes after dark. I took it down to the WIRE. Once again, Ray had graciously cooked another great celebration dinner. We came, and accomplished our objectives! We slept well. The next morning found us packing and waiting on our ride out. We made it out without incident and all went well. Back in Kotzebue found us waiting on a rescheduled flight to Anchorage and more connect four. Darvin came by again and treated us to another round of good stories and homemade doughnuts! We sure are going to miss him. So we leave again from our surreal time in the arctic. After arriving in Anchorage, we carved and butchered our hundreds of pounds of caribou meat!

The butchering table

I cant wait to go back....

ALASKA CARIBOU CAMP 2007 chapter 2

Upon arrival in Kotzebue, we met Kaleb Moore. He was working the camp this year for Northern Air Trophy (the air taxi and guide service that we contracted). He drove us over to our quarters for the stay in Kotz. We had procurred a room with friends rather than pay the almost $200 per night room fee - a room that would be overpriced at $20 a night! Now you may be wondering how we have friends in Kotz. This is a long story, but it amounts to Andrew and I meeting several locals here on the first trip. We have kept in touch. Andrew also attends the same church as a former pastor from up there, Jim Mercer (we attended his church last trip during a wind storm that prevented us from boating across the sound into the mouth of the river on that Sunday). Jim and his wife have since moved to Anchorage due to their medical situation. Darvin is a member at the same church and took us in for coffee and lunch after the service. We forged a friendship there while listening to his amazing stories and making him laugh with good ol southern humor. He helped us immensly on that trip. I'll never forget that first trip in 2002 - Andrew and I were holed up in a connex (shipping container) along the north beach of the village. I felt bad as we occupied the space until the weather broke. Darvin drove us around and asked where we were staying. When he saw the connex was our meager homestead, he looked in bewilderment and laughed. I laughed too and then asked the question I had been pondering, "are there homeless people here?" He looked at me like I was an idiot (arguably the case) and laughed loudly and said emphatically, "No?! ha, you mind as well tell your family 'hey - I am going to die now!' " It was then that I knew I liked this guy. I was worried about stealing a homeless mans shelter. Darvin was worried about me! It gets 80 below zero in the winter. There are no homeless people!



We passed the time as we waited for the weather to break again this year. Nothing to do but play yahtzee and dominoes and connect four. Andrew is a freak of nature connect four champ!




We arrived and spent the day reconnecting with our friends and showing Ray around the village. We were to fly out the next day. Unfortunately, the weather didnt want us out there. We were forced to wait another day. Finally, the weather broke! We headed to the tarmac to get our plane ride. Due to the still border line winds, we got in late afternoon. The pilot told us to pick one to go ahead with some gear. If the hole stayed open, he would get the other two in that evening as well. I was elected to brave the possible tentless night of arctic bliss alone. As it were, there was no problem getting back in that day.


We are at the airport, waiting for our plane to come in.
Leaving little Kotzebue behind
Getting out into the wilderness. After landing, Matt Owen (the pilot) informed me that it would be at least an hour before he could return. So on my hip goes the .44 magnum, on my shoulder goes the .300 wsm, in my pack goes the video camera. I am off to scout around in the area to familiarize myself with the surroundings. This is critical for getting into shooting position on the migrating caribou. I hiked out about a mile, attained the highest immediate peak and glassed about. I saw a pretty good bull over the next ridge. You are not allowed to hunt on the same day that you fly (unfair for the animals), so I watched him through the scope and felt pretty good about our location. I return in time to film Matt bringing in Andrew and Ray. It was still very windy and made for a great video.
With camp made, rifles sighted in, dinner eaten, coffee in our hands, food bag out away from camp, area scouted for morning, we plan ahead for getting Ray's bull on the morrow

ALASKA CARIBOU CAMP 2007 chapter 1

I almost cant believe it is already over. So much anticipation, planning, eagerness to get there, and waiting for September. My wife and I arrived in Anchorage to the feeling of clean, cool, crisp fall air. No more 90+ degree, humid days. We were greeted by Andrew and Julie and enjoyed catching up. The very next morning, Andrew and I headed out to our secret fishing hotspot - the confluence of the Russian River and Kenai River. This time was different. We were no longer the water slapping, bumbling, overly excited salmon busting stumble-bums. WE were the trout snobs! Andrew briefed me on the overall plan during the 2 hour ride up the Seward Highway (worth flying to Alaska for in itself). When we arrived, a short tutorial and we were off. Andrew and I had quite a good day on the Rainbow Trout waters.

I had reeled in a small rainbow last year, but it wasnt worth mentioning. This year would prove different. Andrew linked up first. I was slowly tuning my game. Finally, it all started coming together. Once I found the correct combination of egg color, weight, length of leader and proper strike indicator style and positioning, I was yanking them out in the kind of manner you may imagine in a Bart Neyman dream.

We enjoyed most of the day just catching and releasing up and down the river. Andrew caught quite a good one and it was possibly his best ever. I had one that may have been a contender, but it escaped just as I was landing it! I did have another that I was proud of. I caught a couple of Dolly Varden as well.

Andrew's best success was a big boy that he hooked out of Cottonwood Hole. This is a particular spot on the river. It is also where Trän caught her first ever red salmon last year. It must have taken at least 10 minutes to get it in. I had tried and tried at that spot, but nothing. He threw in and bang! That's how it is sometimes. I was able to figure out a little rapid a ways downstream. I would cast my egg just above and off side of a small rock and float it through just so. About one in five or ten casts were producing trout! Andrew just could not make it happen here. I guess the subtle differences in our presentations were making one spot better for each of us.

Ray Warren, Andrew's father, arrived the next day. The Next few days were spent making final preparations, packing, re-packing, cross checking each others lists, and removing possible "over packing" items. But, on a trip where you dont have to hike in and out your gear - better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it. It was fun to watch the three of us and our different personalities in our packing and approach to the trip. A good balance of approach and emphasis sure made things easy. What was important to one of us may have been missed by the others. The ladies were laughing. I guess it looked like a traveling REI gear and clothing yardsale. One hundred pounds of gear apiece! Off we go...